Saturday June 3: Sensation Overload

The city grabbed us instantly—the energy was apparent from the moment we cleared customs and stepped into the crowded mass waiting in the arrivals hall. Somehow we managed to find a second wind after 30 hours of bleary travel, and we queued excitedly for a taxi into the city. Even after midnight the temperature must have been near ninety and the air remained heavy with a thick mixture of water and pollution. By the time we had our taxi my shirt seemed permanently stuck to my body, but it took only thirty minutes to arrive right downtown at our hostel.
“Hostel Thailand” claims to be the only hostel on the luxurious Silom Road, but somehow none of the surrounding opulence managed to rub off. The claim that “all linens are provided” was stretching it a bit—our narrow cubicle featured airline style blankets on top of plywood boards with thin plastic pallets, but at least it was air-conditioned! In an effort to save space, the hall showerhead was placed right above the toilet, so I suppose it would be possible to multitask one’s morning routine and save some real time! None of the large roaches we were warned about have made an appearance yet, but the sink did have a nice collection of ants. Jim pointed them out to a lady passing, and she gave a big smile, turned the spout, and said, “It works, yes, yes.” I must say though, when we were chatting with the hostel manager about where we were from, he was excited to here we were from Wisconsin. “Wisconsin, special!” he said. Apparently it had been a full year since another Wisconsinite had passed through the hostel, but when Jim said “New Jersey,” the manager waved dismissively, saying “many, many from there—not special.” So, there you go—even in Bangkok our state is special!
With a little remaining energy we finished our first night by exploring the adjacent night market and red light district. Somehow these neighborhoods seem similarly intriguing worldwide, but the persistent solicitations, shows, crowded dance floors, and aggressive pimps manage to quickly curb any enthusiasm. This would be the only red light district I have seen where elephants roam the streets, though. Just two hours after landing, the four of us were standing in front of two of the giant beasts—the scene was unreal!
Thanks to the 12-hour difference, we were all awake bright and early this morning, so we took right off, heading to the banks of the Caho Phraya River that runs right through the city—the pulsating artery bisecting Bangkok’s sprawling seven-million person metropolis. We traveled to the river by tuk-tuk, a colorful sort of motorbike with a small cab that we could just barely squeeze into (designed for those about five and a half feet tall).
For the next two hours we floated along the river and through the narrow canals of the city. The canals lined an older area of Bangkok filled with small “wats,” or Buddhist temples, houses on stilts, floating stores and restaurants of all sorts, and children playing while old men fished. Pollution is certainly a prevalent problem—this water puts the “muddy Mississippi” to shame. The brown viscous solution had a unique odor, combining raw sewage, fish in various stages of decomposition, and fumes from the diesel boats that motored along. I couldn’t help but wince every time I watched a young child jump in. Even the majestic fountains outside of the royal residences sprayed brown.
The tour included a visit to a snake farm and zoo of sorts. I think PETA has missed these establishments thus far, but we saw giant tigers, played with acrobatic monkeys, and saw trainers make deadly snakes perform for the crowd. Peter has a great fear of snakes, so it was a real thrill for him when the trainer accidentally dropped the cobra’s tail right next to his lap. The announcer called out, “Dropping tail lucky. Drop head—not so lucky.” Let’s hope the luck holds!
After the boat trip we made our way to Chinatown. All of the streets have been crowded, but here the streets writhed and seethed with throngs of shoppers moving among the markets selling every conceivable product in inexplicably large quantities and every recognizable and not-so-recognizable animal fried freshly or not-so-freshly. Want ten thousand hair clips? How about a whole octopus? No problem! I’m not sure I understand the logic of grouping the stores by what they sell---a whole street of auto-repair shops is next to a street of jewelry and a street of silk, but this leads to streets that feature more of any single product than the world could ever need. Throughout the maze of alleys, narrow streets, and market stalls were street vendors and small restaurants with food cooked on the spot, emitting intoxicating scents of rich sauces, fresh meats, and thick soups.
With afternoon showers threatening, we decided to take an hour off for a bit of rejuvenation in a traditional Thai message parlor. Upon entering our feet were carefully washed and scrubbed and we changed into comfortable silk pants. Then, Jim and I headed up for a full-body Thai message while Pete and Nick went for the foot special. This, however, was no back rubdown. What followed was the most torturous hour I have ever experienced, as my entire body was twisted and tied, pushed, pulled, and punched. I can’t even touch my toes! At the end, the masseuse seemed genuinely concerned that I might not be okay. Nonetheless, I loved it—we were all captivated, and at five US dollars for an hour, it may become a regular respite from the busy streets.
We concluded touring by walking down the wide avenues of the government district of the city. The king is about to celebrate his 60th year on the throne and he is universally adored. We’re going to miss the festivities by just a day, but we can’t miss the statues, paintings, and royal flags that adorn most buildings in the city. Climbing a tall wat with great views over the city, we had a great chance to stop and try to make the sprawl make sense.
This is just the end of our first full day, and already I feel worn out! Bangkok really does constantly assail all five senses. The horns honk and touts persisistently peddle their wares. Sounds of Buddhist prayer can be heard bleating from loudspeakers around government buildings and temples. The pungent roasting snacks, crispy spring rolls, and fresh flowers, fruits, and vegetables mix with the thick smog, drying seafood, and raw sewage to form a unique smell that pervades the city air. Every street is a bright collage of colors with no hues neglected. And fortunately, a frequent sight has been the warm, immediately engaging faces on the helpful Thai we meet.